A bike in Ukraine has a hard life: spring mud, summer dust, autumn rain and, in winter, de-icing salt from the roads. All of it settles on the chain, cassette and cable housings, mixes with old lubricant and turns into an abrasive paste that wears out the drivetrain far faster than mileage alone.
Regular care takes about half an hour and pays off straight away: gears shift cleanly, the chain stops squeaking, bolts undo without a fight, and the frame and fittings stay free of rust. Below is a step-by-step guide to what to treat and with which product, so your bike lasts longer and rides more easily.
What you will need
Important: Never apply any lubricant or oily product to brake discs, pads or the braking surface of rims. Cover the disc with a cloth while treating the chain. Clean discs with brake cleaner only.
Step 1
Wash the bike
Rinse off the heavy dirt with water: clay on the frame, sand on the wheels and fork. Do not aim a strong pressure-washer jet at the hubs, bottom bracket, headset or pedals, or you will flush the grease out of the bearings.
Then go over the frame and wheels with a sponge and warm water, rinse and let the water drain off.
Step 2
Degrease the chain and drivetrain
Apply WD-40 Specialist Bike Degreaser to the chain, cassette, chainrings and derailleur jockey wheels. Give it a few minutes to dissolve old lubricant and grime.
Brush the links and between the cassette sprockets while backpedalling. Rinse off the residue with water and wipe the chain thoroughly with a dry cloth. The chain must be dry before you lube it.
Step 3
Clean the brake discs separately
If the discs have lube splashes or road film on them, treat them with WD-40 Specialist Brake Cleaner and let them dry. Pads that have soaked up lubricant are better replaced, as cleaning will not save them.
Step 4
Lube the chain for your riding conditions
Choose by weather: dry chain lube does not pick up dust in the heat, wet chain lube stays put in rain and mud, and all-conditions chain lube suits changeable weather.
Shake the can and spray onto the inside of the chain while slowly backpedalling. Allow a few minutes for the solvent to evaporate and the lube to work into the rollers, then wipe off the excess with a clean cloth. Lube left on the surface only attracts dirt.
Step 5
Treat the derailleurs, cassette and cables
Put a little chain lube on the pivots and springs of the front and rear derailleurs, then run through all the gears a few times so it spreads over the cassette and chainrings. If needed, apply a little directly to the cassette and shift through again.
Apply a small amount of the same lube where the gear cables enter and leave their housings so they slide freely. Work carefully around the brakes and make sure nothing reaches the disc or pads.
Step 6
Grease the seatpost
Pull out the seatpost and wipe both the post and the inside of the seat tube. Apply a thin layer of WD-40 Specialist White Lithium Grease: a thick grease works better here than a runny lube, as it stays in place, keeps moisture out and stops the post seizing in the frame. For carbon frames or posts, follow the bike manufacturer's instructions.
Step 7
Protect bolts and metal parts
Use WD-40 Multi-Use Smart Straw with the thin straw on mounting bolts, axles, clamps and metal pedal parts. It displaces moisture and protects against rust, which matters most after winter. Wipe off the excess and cover the braking area with a cloth.
Tip: After a ride in the rain or on salted roads, do not put the job off: wipe the chain, treat it with degreaser and apply fresh lube. Salt and moisture left overnight can leave the chain rusty by morning.
What next
Clean and lube the chain every 150-300 km or after every wet, muddy ride, and do a full service once a month, always before the season and before winter storage. Keep a can of WD-40 Multi-Use and a chain lube at home and your bike will always be ready to ride.
These uses come from the experience of WD-40 users in many countries. Always follow the instructions and warnings on the product label.
More guides in «How to use».